Here are the best things to do in Berat, plus a few suggested day trips. At the end of the list, you’ll find an interactive map to help you find your way around..

1. CLIMB TO BERAT CASTLE (BERAT KALA) FOR INCREDIBLE VIEWS

The long brushstroke of chestnut-coloured rooftops that make up Berat’s historic centre is painted through the Osum river valley. Twin peaks rise on either side. Gorica Hill, the taller of the two, wears a stony crown: The formidable 13th century Berat Castle.

Berat Kalaja is the biggest castle in Albania. Unlike other fortifications in the region that have been hollowed out over time, Berat Castle is mostly in-tact. Within its walls, you’ll find a vast citadel complex of stone streets, houses and Byzantine churches mixed in with ruins from various epochs.

Having visited dozens of fortresses in the Balkans, Berat Castle feels completely unique.

2. FIND THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY

Built in the 13th and 14th century, the Church of Saint Trinity (Kisha Shen Triadha) is another Berat landmark with immense significance. Whoever designed this church was both inspired and resourceful: The architecture combines Byzantine and Western elements, and inside, several of the column capitals are repurposed from old ruins.

Even if you don’t step inside, it’s enough to just enjoy the views of the domed church perched on the hillside.

3. ADMIRE THE RELICS AT THE ONUFRI ICONOGRAPHY MUSEUM

The Onufri Iconography Museum (Muzeu Onufri) was established to safeguard a collection of icons, artworks and artefacts salvaged from the ruins of Berat’s religious buildings.

If you’re going to choose just one museum to visit in Berat, I think you should make it this one rather than the Ethnographic Museum. It offers a window onto a unique and very beautiful aspect of Albanian history.

Located inside the castle grounds, the Onufri Museum is housed in the Church of the Dormition of St. Mary, a triple-nave Byzantine basilica that was restored in 1797. The entrance leads to a preserved part of the cathedral where you can see the original altar, amvona and Bishop’s Throne, all covered with ornate frescoes and wood carvings.

4. EXPLORE THE MANGALEM QUARTER

The river valley that runs through Berat dissects the city into two precincts: Mangalem (Mangalemi) and Gorica. There’s not any meaningful difference between the two today – but in centuries past, Mangalem was traditionally the Ottoman or Muslim Quarter, with Christians living over the river in Gorica. Together they make up Berat Old Town.

Mangalem, the larger of the two neighbourhoods, fans out under the castle’s wing. Houses inch up the hillside like creeping vines drawn towards the sun, all vying for a precious slice of that priceless Berat view.

Spiralling stone alleys and narrow streets link impressive Ottoman-style houses. Halveti Tekke, Berat’s Dervish House built in 1782 by Ahmet Kurt Pasha, the Bachelor’s Mosque, orthodox churches and other Old Town landmarks are all located along Mangalem’s historic alleys.

5. CROSS THE RIVER TO GORICA QUARTER

Mangalem and Gorica are linked together by Gorica Bridge, a seven-arched stone bridge with a similar design to the Ottoman bridge in Visegrad in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Over in Gorica Quarter, the architecture is just as beguiling and the narrow alleys equally precipitous. Many of the 18th century homes have been designated cultural landmarks and are signposted with information boards.

6. SUMMIT GORICA HILL FOR A SUNSET PANORAMA

Clamber up the sloping cobblestoned streets on the left bank of the river behind Hotel Muzaka to find your way to the top of Gorica Hill.

On the way up, you get stunning views of Mangalem’s white houses front-on, with Berat Castle silhouetted against the distant mountains.

7. IMMERSE YOURSELF IN LOCAL HISTORY AT THE NATIONAL ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

Back over the river, Mangalem hosts Berat’s National Ethnographic Museum, one of the grandest Ottoman-era houses in the city. We’ve visited a dozen of these house museums in the Balkans: Berat’s is the biggest and one of the most remarkable we’ve seen thus far.

As is customary, the house is set up as it would have been when it was first built. Interestingly you can also see the bathroom here (most house museums have this part of the property closed off).

Entrance costs 300 lek, and it observes the same summer/winter hours as the Onufri Museum.

8. SEEK OUT THE CLUTCH OF HISTORIC MOSQUES

If you’ve been travelling around the Balkans for a while, you’ll notice some immediate (and delicious) differences with Albanian food. Cevapi fatigue be gone! Albanian cuisine is a fresh and tasty alternative.

There are a few specialty dishes here that you won’t find elsewhere in the country – you should definitely go out of your way to try at least a few. If you’re wondering where to eat in Berat, here are my top picks.

Homemade Food Lili

The most unique restaurant in Berat. Delicious food is homespun and unpretentious; try the Fergese, pumpkin Burek (seasonal), and chicken cooked in yogurt. Homemade wine and Raki is also served. It’s the hospitality that really makes this place special – let’s just say Lili is not who you might be picturing!

There are only five tables, so it’s essential to book a spot at Homemade Food Lili a couple of days in advance. When we were there, we saw a dozen hopeful people get turned away.

10. GO FOR AN EVENING XHIRO ON BOULEVARD REPUBLIKA

Xhiro is a tradition all over Albania. Come sunset, entire towns and cities empty out onto the nearest pedestrian street. People lap up and down for hours on end, stopping to chat with friends, play a game of outdoor chess, grab an ice cream or sip coffee in an outdoor cafe.